Taste of Brasil

Considering that Brazil has the world’s fifth largest population, a mix of ethnicities from across the globe, and cuisines to match, it’s surprising the Chicago area has so few Brazilian restaurants. And that those are mainly steakhouses. Beef is big in Latin America’s largest country, but it’s hardly what is eaten exclusively at home and in casual dining places. For a real taste of Brazil, you need a place that serves up what home cooks and street vendors have to offer.

Taste of Brasil is just that. Owner-chef Maria Mazon works throughout the day to prepare fresh batches of specialty turnovers — the kinds of snacks you’d find in every town in Brazil. 

Among them are Pastel, a savory empanada filled with either beef (mixed with chopped egg) or cheese; and Coxinha, a round chicken croquette, unlike the usual American variety, that’s filled with either chicken, beef or shrimp. Risoles are other kinds of delectable empanadas; they’re mini pies, your choice of chicken or hearts of palm. The latter are available in larger sizes to serve four or five at home. All of these are inexpensive, made on the spot by Maria, and utterly delicious. Since Taste of Brasil is very near the Blue Line, consider stopping in for a quick breakfast — they have coffees — or for take-out for work.

Brazilian cuisine is a mixture of traditions: Portuguese and other European, and African.  It’s also regional. As Maria says, her native south has milder dishes, while those of the north uses malagueta pepper to spice things up. For instance, the national dish, Feijoada, comes in many forms, based on rice, black beans, garlic and onions, sometimes with meats and cooked in African dende oil. It can be served with a spicy sauce — in this case a special secret one. Feijoada, risotto with chicken, and others dishes rotate as daily specials. On Friday, the chef plans to prepare the classic fish dish, Maqueca (cooked with tomatoes, cilantro, lemon, olive oil and peppers).

What should not be missed are the baked goods that Maria makes herself. Strawberry, coconut and flan cakes, some with chocolate, are displayed in a front case, as are smaller cakes and truffles. They’re all not only good to look at, for dessert fans they’re a must.

This economical introduction to real Brazil — down to the spelling of its name — is one savory social studies lesson.